Going to Rwanda...and exploring the world along the way

Traveling in 2011 and hiking in 2012

2012-01-02T16:44:00.010-05:00

2011 was a fantastic travel year (and in general!). I:

had the opportunity to visit two very different, but great ranches -- Canyon Ranch and Phantom Ranch;
visited Asia -- Hong Kong -- for the first time with my sister;
hiked Zion, Bryce and the Grand Canyon; and
ate fresh lobster in Maine.

I thoroughly enjoyed the diverse experiences, which turned out to be memorable growth opportunities.

I'm not sure yet what trips are in the cards for 2012, but I'm certain that they will be just as wonderful. I have, however, locked down my 2012 southeast hiking 'bucket list':

Three Forks to Springer Mountain (I've already done some of this, but as usual, we got lost the first go round. It typically takes three tries to get it right ;).)
Raven Cliff Falls
Blood Mountain
Black Rock Mountain
Cloudland Canyon State Park
BMT (i.e., the Benton MacKaye Trail)
LeConte

Re-reading at my most recent post, I see that in 2011 I checked off a few bucket items. I look forward to wherever I go next!

The bucket list

2011-06-30T20:53:00.003-04:00

People are constantly asking me, "where are you going next?", intrigued to know about my next trip.

Since my travel budget went bust with the last trip, I decided to take a few minutes to look over the wish list.

Tibet

India

Nepal

Bhutan

Budapest

Prague

Peru

Argentina (over Christmas)

Grand Canyon

Australia

New Zealand

Borneo (to see the orangutans)

Japan (to see the snow monkeys)

British Virgin Islands (to go diving)

Chile

Vienna

Belize (the south side) part 2

San Francisco (it has been over a decade since I have been there!!)

NY, NY (I can't seem to get enough of this city)

Spain (how I miss thee..)

Kenya

South Africa

Thailand

Boston

Maine

Vermont

Graceland

Austin, Tx.

A dude ranch out west

Carmel and Monterrey

Baja

Oregon

Montreal

Berlin (during the film festival)

Cannes (during the film festival)

Vernazza

Amsterdam

Hawaii

Miami

And, the list goes on. How I love to travel. If only I had more time and money....

However, I have been fortunate to do what I have done. I'm very grateful for the opportunities I have had and have enjoyed every traveling minute.

Hong Kong Dining

2011-04-26T21:50:00.009-04:00

There are many reasons why I wanted to visit Hong Kong - one of which is the food. During my first visit to Asia, I was ready for great Asian food in Asia itself.

Good food I had. From amazing Portuguese food in Macao to perfect dumplings on Hong Kong island, I was content.

Nepalese Cuisine. I have a -- travel -- bucket list, and Nepal is in the top 10. (Maybe even in the top 5, depending on the day.) While eating Nepalese cuisine isn't the first thing that comes to mind when dining in Hong Kong, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to have a taste. My sister and I were pleasantly surprised. I reminded me of Bangladesh and India food that I would eat back home. I enjoyed the Nepal Ice beer (and look forward to drinking it when I finally make it to the Himalayas). The restaurant was packed with an eclectic, global crowd. In fact, some ended up being served at another location down the street! We let the waiter guide our selections, and we were pleased. We had khasi gorkhali (lamb sauteed with onion, tomato, capsicum, ginger and coriander), vegetable rana khandani (mixed vegetables with home-made cottage cheese cooked in a royal gravy), naan, a chilled yogurt desert, and more
Din Tai Fung. This is a must. Hong Kong boasts two locations of this dumpling house Asian chain (which just opened in Seattle). The dumplings are perfect, the vegetables are refreshing, and the rice is amazing. I can't wait to eat here again.
Lily & Bloom. We didn't have the opportunity to eat here, but I would definitely give it a try. My drink was spot on -- an interesting interpretation of my drink of choice, the mojito. Made with sparkling wine, this libation wet my appetite for the fantastic Chinese restaurant that we enjoyed in SoHo.
Shelley's Yard. If you need a break from Asian cuisine, this is a good standby. We had a lovely brunch here.
Red. This is the IFC expat hotspot for a happy hour drink with a view. They have the ordering system down to a science, so that you can grab your bucket of beer and join your friends, i.e., the masters of the universe.
Alorcha. Wow. This place was amazing. I want to go back. Now. We had fresh clams served with garlic and herbs, seafood rice, grilled prawns with garlic, perfect bread and red wine, and a chocolate mousse cream dessert. (Located on Macao)
Fernando's. This was another hit on Macao. Once again we had clams (this time with a tomato garlic broth), barbecue chicken, and garlic cod -- all washed down with a great sangria. The quaint restaurant is near the sea and lacks a/c making for a sultry evening.
The Peninsula. Apparently this is the place for high tea, however, I was disappointed with the service and food. I expected perfect service (which it was not). From spilling hot water on the table to being off pace, I was left was the feeling that my favorite tea place in Fla. spoiled me all those years.
The Boathouse. Given the turn of events of our trip, we ate here twice. However, this was my least favorite restaurant. While the views were great and there were attempts at great service, the food left me wanting to quickly return to Din Tai Fung. Next time, I'll know better.
Serenade Chinese Restaurant. The writer of my guidebook referred to this Kowloon dim sum restaurant as her favorite. I can see why. The menu was expansive and the views were spectacular. Overlooking the harbor onto the sights of the HKI sky scrappers made for a nice afternoon snack.

We ate at many more places, some worth revisiting, others worth forgetting. All-in-all, my taste buds were pleased by the exotic experience....if only I knew what I was eating I could order it next time ;)

I'm more like my father...

2010-08-15T10:03:00.002-04:00

...than I thought.

I have a weekly ritual. Every Sunday I make pancakes. As I'm eating them (make with fresh blueberries today), it dawned on me - my father did/does the same thing.

And, earlier this week I put into place one of his habits that I used to make fun of. Every year he goes to Salt Lake City to snow ski. Since the trip is at the same time of year, for the same number of days, and at the same place - he basically needs to pack the same things each time. As such, he has a 'packing list' saved on his computer.

I created my own 'packing list' recently and couldn't help but chuckle at myself. Given all of the traveling I have been doing this year -- for business and pleasure -- I figured I'd 'streamline' things so that I could pack more efficiently, without having to worry about forgetting anything.

The checklist works great. I just need to remember to put everything on the list in my suitcase. :)

Seattle's Dining Scene

2010-07-27T20:55:00.009-04:00

I probably gained 10 pounds last week, but I'm not going to get on a scale to confirm it.

I ate, and drank, my way through Seattle. And I enjoyed (almost) every bite.

Macrina Bakery & Cafe. We were fortunate to stay in a hotel across the street from what many claim to be the best bakery in Seattle. I only had time to eat there once, but I could have easily eaten there every day and been pleased. I enjoyed a perfect cappuccino, a salad that couldn't be beat, and a foccacia-like bread topped with a spicy hummus and arugula. I wish I saved room for dessert.
Palace Kitchen. What many in Seattle consider to be the better of the Tom Douglas restaurants, this was my first - and positive - introduction to the Seattle dining scene. I enjoyed a local brew while waiting for a table. We then started with a goat cheese and lavender fondue with grilled bread and apples, which couldn't have been a better comfort food to feel at home. Since they are known for their dishes prepared on the apple wood fire grill, I felt compelled to order something prepared in that way. I wasn't disappointed. The whole trout with marcona almond and lemon was flakey, fresh and flavorful. Again, I wish I saved room for dessert - I really wanted a slice of that homemade strawberry pie.
Dahlia Lounge. Eating at Tom Douglas' first Seattle restaurant was on my 'to do' list. Since we had dinner at Palace Kitchen, we mixed it up and had brunch at the Lounge - which proved to be a good decision. We started with homemade donuts served with homemade preserves and mascarpone -- delicious. I then enjoyed an omelet accompanied by the best breakfast potatoes I have probably ever had. They were crisp on the outside and tender on the inside - and cooked all the way through.
The Elliot Bay Book Company. Still regretting that I didn't order the pie at Palace Kitchen, I treated myself to an afternoon snack by ordering a slice of pie made with local blueberries and topped with freshly whipped cream. I'm not a pie lover, so I don't know where this craving came from, but it was finally satiated. And who would have thought you could get such a great slice of pie at a bookstore? In addition to serving great food, I was impressed with their selection. This isn't a bookstore to be missed. It is located in the classic Capitol Hill section of Seattle.
Very Odd Fellows. If eating at a bookstore isn't your cup of tea, a few blocks away is a great restaurant worth a try. My friend and I eat tried a different salad. We were impressed with their version of classics such as the greek salad. The large picnic tables, tall ceilings and windows, also make for a nice ambiance.
Bastille Cafe & Bar. If you are ever in Ballard, this place is a must. It is also a great place for happy hour. We enjoyed an abundance of great for on the cheap. Just getting off the vegetarian wagon, I ordered a lamb burger with lavash seasame bun, harissa aioli, arugula, pickled shallot and feta. I was impressed...that I ate the entire burger! My friend and I shared Kennebec fries with grey sea salt and an truffle oil alioli, as well as a beet and arugula salad with pistachios, chevre croute and red wine vinaigrette.
Cupcake Royale. The cupcake scene is quite popular in Atlanta, but I will say - Cupcake Royale was impressive. I especially enjoyed the daily special - strawberry cupcake. The cake was light and fluffy and the strawberry frosting apparently was made with real strawberries. Fortunately Seattle boasts multiple locations of this sweetspot, so it is relatively easy to get your sugar fix.
Bedlam Coffee. When wanting a creative cup of joe in Seattle, this place is a must. I enjoyed a frothy lavender mocha and my friend had an iced rose mocha. The unique creation was delicious - I'm craving another, yet my new favorite place is 2,600 miles away....
Pike Brewing Co. If you must visit Pike Brewing Co., only order a beer - maybe even the taster. With all of the wonderful dining options in Seattle, you don't want to waste precious time (and calories!) here.

There are a number of places I didn't get to try (e.g., Salumi, Shiro's Sushi Restaurant, BlackBottle), so it is looking like I'm going to have to return to the Emerald City.

Eating in the San Juans

2010-07-25T19:27:00.005-04:00

Eating at Backdoor Kitchen was without doubt my favorite dining experience in Friday Harbour. I would have eaten there every night had my travel companion humored my new restaurant obsession.

The drinks alone were enough to keep me returning for more. Since I'm a lightweight, I only had a chance to try one: the No. 7 - Vodka shaken with "fresh squeezed grapefruit juice, ginger syrup, and Thai basis leaves. Served straight up w/ basil garnish." The refreshing libation hit the spot - and I looked forward to the rest of the repast.

I desperately wanted a salad of organic greens, but I only had room for dessert or an appetizer (in addition to my main course) and dessert won out this evening.

My entree was perfect - I was scraping the plate so that I could get every drop of goodness. I devoured the pan seared sea scallops. For some reason I have never had perfectly cooked sea scallops in Georgia - only on the west coast. Since it has been quite a long time since I have been to the west coast, enjoying a perfectly prepared scallop was long over due. In addition to to it being cooked just right, I loved the ginger sake beurre blanc sauce that topped it. The sesame scallion rice cake pleasantly surprised me. I wasn't expecting so much flavor, and the texture was nice as well. The side vegetables were full of flavor, reminding me the benefits of eating local, organic produce.

I enjoyed a glass of Yalumba 2009 viognier, which was the perfect compliment to the dish.

Dinner ended perfectly with a sundae - the best I have had in over a decade (again, that wonderful experience was in San Francisco). If I wasn't about to pop, I would probably have ordered another one!

My other favorite spot in Friday Harbor was the Doctor's Office which makes great coffee, cinnamon rolls and scones. Enjoying a perfect latte and pastry on the front porch of the Victorian home which looking at the harbor is a great way to start the day. I also enjoyed one of the best vegetarian sandwiches I have had in a long time.

Other places visited on the island included:

The Bluff. This is a great place to enjoy a drink which taking in the view, preferably sitting in the Adirondack chairs, if available. (Apparently Tom Hanks and wife Rita were doing just that a few hours before we were there.)
Duck Soup Inn. Only open a few months of the year, this cozy restaurant prepares seasonal Northwester cuisine. Having just started to eat chicken again (after 17+ years), I ordered the blueberry habanero chicken since it sounded interesting. The free range (this part is important to me) chicken breast was lightly coated with breadcrumbs and herbes de Provence, topped with blueberry habanero chutney, goat cheese and served with creamy polenta. This was definitely a comforting (and filling) dish that I thoroughly enjoyed.
Rocky Bay Cafe. It seems like this is where everyone in town (and tourists alike) eats breakfast. The down to earth, fast and friendly service makes it possible. I enjoyed a vegetarian eggs benedict.
Herb's Tavern. There's no better way to get to know a place that to share a beer with locals in their tavern. Turns out there is only one bar in town - Herb's Tavern. I enjoyed a Mac and Jack's while talking with a local islander (and his college buddy from Oregon).

A living ad for Anthropologie

2010-07-25T19:21:00.002-04:00

When I stepped foot off the ferry, I just walked into a live ad for Anthropologie.

The woman directing us to our hotel pulled a red wagon (which just carried her grandkids to the other island - Anacortes). She wore cowboy boots, a floral and lacy skirt, whimsical jewelry, and carried a laid back and romantic attitude, as did the rest of the woman on the island. All of whom seemed to be natural beauties, as they didn't wear make up (maybe just some lip gloss) and their hair was casually pulled as strands fell over their face.

If only I could pull off their style in Atlanta.

Seattle -- day 1

2010-07-19T19:38:00.006-04:00

Seattle is everything I thought it would be -- and more.

Flying in I was blown away by the Cascade Mountains. And, having recently seen (and summitted Kilimanjaro) I was impressed with how much Mt. Ranier, well, impressed me. Climbing that mountain was immediately added to my bucket list.

When I arrived to my hotel, I was pleasantly surprised with Hotel Max creator's attention to detail. Afterall, I notice them all from the pillow menu to the choice of spiritual readings.

My friend and I then strolled a few blocks away to eat at Palace Kitchen - which hit the spot. I downed an ale, grazed on bread and cheese fondu, then devoured fresh trout that was cooked over an apple wood oven fire. Sides included farm fresh green beans and mashed potatoes. How I wanted a slice of strawberry pie, but unfortunately I didn't leave room.

We then walked towards Belltown to attend a rooftop BBQ, and boy were we in for a treat. The view was magnificant. I was blown away by the moutains in multiple directions (again, Mt. Ranier caught my eye), the water and the skyline. And, we arrived at sunset. What a great start to a week away.

I did it

2010-06-19T07:23:00.002-04:00

When I left the States on June 11th I didn't know whether or not I was capable of summitting Kilimanjaro. I pushed and tested myself -- and I did it.

A couple of hours ago I reached the bottom of the mountain - and I just had a shower (really the equivalent of 3) for the first time in a week. I'm going to collect my thoughts, clean my filthy clothes, and rest a bit. Then, I'll post some details on the trip :) Stay tuned.

Facing fears - one step at a time

2010-06-09T22:39:00.005-04:00

The unknown is scary -- to me at least.

When I am determined to do something, regardless if it is my first time trying, I reach my goal. Despite having numerous successes under my belt, I am always nervous when doing something for the first time. I wonder:

Did I prepare enough?
What if x, y, and z happens?

During these moments of anxiety, I try to remind myself that if 'x, y, z' happens, I can figure things out. And, 'x, y, z' usually doesn't happen -- so there's no point in stressing about it. Logic and reason aside, it seems that fears bubble up.

This mountain is an attempt to quell those fears.

I have a single goal when hiking Kilimanjaro -- to be in the moment. The past and future don't exist. "What if," doesn't matter. All that will matter, is the here and now.

Let's see if I reach this goal. I have the feeling it is the greatest challenge I have set for myself yet.

Helping to End Global Poverty in Tanzania

2010-05-16T15:01:00.002-04:00

This June I’m going to summit Mt. Kilimanjaro and volunteer in Tanzania. The volunteer project will be a group effort to build a chicken coop and fish pond for a school in a village with very limited financial resources.

Why a chicken coop and why build it over a pond? It's a sustainable approach to improving health of both nearby crops and the chicken eggs/fish, which are in turn sold to help the school earn its own income and support itself. The pond/coop design will also be used to demonstrate innovative, sustainable farming practices to other Babati community members.

Roadmonkey expedition members like me raise tax-deductible contributions to fund the work I'll be doing in this remote Tanzanian village, Babati, southwest of Mt. Kilimanjaro. These donations are securely held by Roadmonkey's non-profit partner on this expedition, a registered British charity called Livingstone Tanzania Trust. The money I raise goes toward buying the materials for our project.

Please consider making a contribution to my volunteer project in Babati, Tanzania. Any donation amount is welcome. You can do it online, securely, in three minutes by following the five simple steps below. Your contribution will help more primary school children remain in the classroom. Donations are 100-percent tax deductible and you will receive a letter from Omprakash confirming your donation.

Please also send a link to this post to those who may be interested in contributing to this project.

Thank you!!!!

HOW TO DONATE: 5 Easy Steps
1. Go to this Livingstone Tanzania Trust web page, which explains the volunteer project: www.livingstonetanzaniatru st.com/index.php?page=road monkey2010

2. On that page, click the orange donation link (https://omprakash.org/DonationForm?go=DonationForm&p=12) at the bottom of the page. DO NOT click the “donate now” button; it’s for UK donors only.

3. You're now on the Omprakash donation page; Omprakash is a registered 501(c)(3). Fill in the donation amount and billing information. Payments are accepted via credit card and transactions will securely processed through an encrypted connection.

4. At the bottom of the page is an optional "Notes" field -- please insert my name in this section for tracking purposes, as each trip participate has an individual fundraising goal. [You could insert something like, “Donation for Heather's June 2010 trip with Roadmonkey.”]

5. That's it! Please email ashley@omprakash.org to receive a receipt for your tax-deductible donation.

Omprakash Foundation is a public, non-profit and tax-exempt organization under Section 501 (c) (3) of the United States tax code. Donations are tax deductible as allowed by law.

About Livingstone Tanzania Trust
Livingstone Tanzania Trust is a growing charity that works with an impoverished rural community, working to improve education and general quality of life. Livingstone Tanzania Trust is a registered UK charity (registration No. 1119512) – to ensure all U.S. donations are tax deductible, a U.S. non-profit partner, Omprakash (a 501(c)(3) organization under the IRS tax code) will be accepting donations on the trust’s behalf. Omprakash essentially holds the donations in a legal, transparent way that allows American donors to receive a tax deduction.

It's all about the milestones at this point

2010-05-02T21:00:00.006-04:00

While preparing for my greatest physical outdoor challenge yet, I feel a great sense of accomplishment by completing goals set to help me prepare for my June Kilimanjaro hike.

Last month I completed my first run ever. I never attempted a race because I either didn't think I could do it or I was simply too lazy. After running a 6K last month to raise money for the global water crisis -- without stopping -- I felt pretty good, and was happy that my time didn't suck :) While it wasn't intentional, it was also fitting that I supported the same cause as Jessica Biel and team who recently climbed Kilimanjaro to support the same cause.

With one accomplishment under my belt, it was time to turn to the next challenge -- a four hour hike.

Since I have been running 3 miles, three times a week, I thought I would be able to do this with no problem.

I now understand the merits of 'cross training'.

Hiking a steep incline with a backpack uses a completely different set of muscle groups as running. So much so, that at one point during the hike, I turned to my friend to comment, "This is hard."

The following day I felt an intense pain in the back of my leg, reminding me that - stretching is important, regardless of the type of exercise.

With only 40 days left before my big departure, I sometimes wonder if I'll be ready by June 11th. But, if I think about how far I have already come and that Lao-tzu noted that, "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step" -- I may be okay.

It's time to go shopping!

2010-04-19T08:49:00.003-04:00

Now that I have a new and improved fitness routine, it is time to dust off that packing list and hit the stores.

First item: gaiters.

Upon hearing this word for the first time, and having parents who graduated from the University of Florida, images of devoted football fans wearing orange and blue immediately came to mind. Google taught me that the gaiters I’m going to need aren’t necessarily orange and blue. They will cover my shoe and lower pant leg to provide protection during the descent as I wade through shin-deep scree, better known as broken rock fragments at the base of mountain cliffs.

Next on the list – a high-quality, high-beam headlamp for the 7-hour summit climb that begins at midnight.

The significance of this didn’t really hit me until I watched Summit to the Summit – I became a little freaked out.

During the summit climb, I will be in complete darkness. Looking down, the small light on my head will illuminate the feet of the person in front of me as well as my own. I won’t be able to see anything else for 7 hours, as I’m hiking in the freezing cold mind you.

In fact, this is the part of the trip during which Jessica Biel almost turned around. She commented that the sun rose at the perfect moment, because she couldn’t handle complete darkness for another minute.

The shopping list goes on and on, including everything from a rainproof cold-weather parka to gloves that are effective at freezing temperatures.

Needless to say, preparing for this trip is no easy task. I have been at it for months now and with less than two months to go, I still have quite a bit to do.

But, I'm...almost there.

Why Climb a Mountain Named -- Kill A Man ....?

2010-04-12T22:58:00.001-04:00

A friend recently asked me why I want to climb a mountain with a name that starts with Kill A Man.

He makes a good point. I started to wonder that myself. After all, people die trying every year.

The reason behind my desire to climb Kilimanjaro is a story for another today.

Today, I have to get busy. After all, I have a mountain to climb.

First order of business: doctor visit.

With the greenlight from my primary care physician, I then visited my favorite medical clinic – Peachtree Travel Clinic.

As a Sagittarius who wants to explore every corner of the earth, they have gotten to know me on a first name basis by now.

Since they have already given me close to every vaccine in the book, I was happy to learn that I only needed one shot.

I did, however, want to learn about Diamox – a drug that apparently helps with altitude sickness.

From what I have read thus far, the greatest challenge to reaching Kili’s summit isn’t a factor of fitness, but actually how one responds to the altitude – all 19,833 feet of it.

Since I want to reach the summit, I’m happy to give Diamox a try, but first I wanted to know a little about it.

Turns out altitude sickness comes about when the body doesn’t handle pH, salt and water quite as it should.

Diamox helps with the chemical equation by allowing the body to retain carbonic acid and keep the buffering system within the body in balance.

So, I’m more than happy to start taking Diamox come June 11.

It's Time to Get Serious

2010-03-16T22:02:00.005-04:00

I'm not a TV watcher and can't remember the last time I watched MTV. By happenstance, Sunday evening I came across MTV's Summit on the Summit. The timing couldn't have been better.

In less than three months, like Jessica Biel and 300 other celebrities, I'm going to set foot in Tanzania with the goal of climbing Kilimanjaro.

While weekend hikes and hot yoga have become part of my weekly routine, deep down I knew that I wasn't exercising hard enough. Sunday night -- that though was confirmed as I watched the celebs gasp for air, walk in the sleet and rain, and sway due to dizziness caused by altitude sickness.

Thank goodness for the reality check.

I now have a more 'rigorous' exercise routine consisting of hot yoga twice a week, running three times a week, and a 3+ hour hike on the weekend. This may not, however, sound like much for those who have a few marathons under their belt. For me, however, this is like climbing a mountain.

Last night I ran a mile -- the first time I've gone running since breaking my elbow while roller blading this time last year. Needless to say, today I have a shin split.

No pain no gain, right? Better yet, maybe I should just buy better shoes.

Training Day 1: 16 Weekends to Go

2010-02-14T21:50:00.012-05:00

I have 16 weekends (i.e., four months) to train for my six day ascent to the peak of Africa's tallest mountain -- Kilimanjaro.

This weekend Georgia experienced heavy snowfalls for this time of year, but that didn't stop me from hiking. Afterall, this was a great opportunity to see how I could handle hiking in the snow.

As we headed to one of my favorite parks, Fort Mountain, it didn't occur to me that the snow and ice may cause the park to close. We were disappointed to find the road leading to the park was closed, so we had to head straight to Ellijay and determine a 'plan B'. Fortunately, we learned from a local hiking store that there were a number of nearby trails.

We gave Cartecay River Loop a try. I thoroughly enjoyed this trail, which provided a varied landscape, from solitude in the woods to a lovely river.

Sunday's hike taught me that preparation is key. Given the inclement weather conditions (by Georgian standards), I should have inquired about the park's status before venturing off. Also, I should have better familiarized myself with the Cartecay River Loop before hitting the trail. At one point we encountered a split, uncertain as to which way to go. The wilderness doesn't mess around. I don't want to make the evening news, so I should know what is ahead - before venturing forth.

Large snowflakes filled the air on Sunday, making for a picturesque surrounding, but less than idea hiking conditions.

We tried to get to the Conasauga River Trail, but despite 4-wheel drive, we couldn't make it to the trail head. Instead, we opted for a trail I have hiked a few times before - the Bear Creek Trail. We were unable to drive to the parking lot, so we created our own spot by a creek and walked about .5 mi. to the trail head.

The snow covered path, icicles, and falling snow made for a lovely walk in the woods. We had to cross three cold creeks/rivers. Fortunately, I didn't fall in once. (Thank goodness for the balance I have gained in yoga class!)

While I didn't hike as long as I would have liked this weekend, I'm glad I gave it a go--despite the weather. With each step I take in preparation for Kili2010, the more confident I am that I will make the summit come June.

Like a Rock

2010-01-01T12:39:00.003-05:00

It has been two decades since I have slept on the ground -- in a tent. Yet, in less than six months I'll be doing so for a full week, in Africa.

Fortunately, the last two nights I have been forced to sleep on the floor (since I have been sans mattress). The first night was pretty rough, but to be honest, the second night wasn't so bad.

There's hope for me yet.

7 Summiteer -- I am not!

2009-12-30T22:42:00.003-05:00

After further research, it appears there are multiple versions of the "seven summits" lists. While there are slight variations -- there are a few constants, such as the inclusion of Everest.

"Everest: Beyond the Limit" is currently on the Discovery channel and I am completely perplexed as to the attraction of climbing this mountain? While today I sit here dumbfounded -- and pretty hellbent on not becoming a "Seven Summiteer", I can't help but wonder...will I change my mind in years to come?

Why bother?

2009-12-29T21:51:00.007-05:00

The tallest mountains on each of the seven continents includes:

Everest in Asia (29,035 feet)
Aconcagua in S. America (22,834)
Denali in N. America (20,320)
Kilimanjaro in Africa (19,340)
Elbrus in Europe (18,510)
Vinson Massif in Antarctica (16,066)
Kosciuszko in Australia (7,310)

There are many who set out to climb each of these -- but why? Is it to be part of a small group who has accomplished the same feat? Is it to have, and hopefully reach, a goal whether it be physical or mental? Or is it something else?

I never really thought about it before signing up for Roadmonkey's 2010 trip to Tanzania. Recently, however, I began to reflect -- to figure out why I wanted to do this, as I knew there was more to it than my love of travel and desire to explore every corner of the earth.

I am goal oriented, so the idea of having something to work towards -- and hopefully achieve -- is appealing, no doubt. But I think there is more to it this time.

This past decade has been hell--regarding every aspect of my life. I feel that the next one won't be anything like the one that is about to come to an end (for that I am grateful). This trip, and the journey to the top of Africa's tallest mountain, represents the struggle I have gone through these past 10 years. Yet, despite the hardships, there were moments of beauty and pleasure and joy. And, by persistently taking it one step at a time -- I have been able to get to the other side.

I'm going to do everything I can to reach the summit, and hopefully next June I will succeed. If I don't make it, however, I will know that it doesn't mean defeat. After all, life is really about the journey -- not the final destination.

The Next Adventure -- Kilimanjaro

2009-12-23T23:53:00.003-05:00

I didn't pick Kili -- it picked me.

A few years ago I started following the development of a new travel company. Had I started such a company, it would have the same philosophy -- adventure travel with a heart. Seeing Roadmonkey's first successfully completed Kili expedition, I knew I had to get on board for the next one.

June 2010 we are going to take the Lemosho route which is one of the newest, thus more rugged and less littered trails. As such, we'll have a greater chance of seeing wild animals, which would be a treat.

Before signing up for the trip I didn't really know what I was getting into. The more I read, the more I realize that - this trip isn't a joke. I'm going to have to prepare. From getting the proper meds to taking my workout routine up a notch, I can't lose focus these next six months. After-all, I want to reach the ultimate goal -- of making it to the summit.

I now have my scripts and started using the 'incline' feature on the treadmill. While these are merely baby steps, as Lao Tzu said, "The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step."

2nd Annual Dive Fest in P.C.

2009-09-22T21:20:00.006-04:00

I just returned from a great dive trip--not because the weather was perfect, the wild life was amazing, or the location was surreal. It boils down to the fact that we had some honest, good fun -- all while supporting a great cause.

The 2nd Annual Dive Fest took place in Panama City, Fla. and raised money for SUDS -- Soldiers Undertaking Disabled Scuba. Founded by John Thompson after volunteering with the American Red Cross at Walter Reed Army Medical Center (WRAMC), where he realized how many military personnel were returning, wounded, from Iraq and Afghanistan, SUDS enables the use of SCUBA as a rehabilitation tool.

By buying tickets to the fundraiser (during which there was a silent auction and raffle), diving with Panama City Dive Charters and Better Bottom Time (both which donated a portion of their proceeds to SUDS), and more, were were able to raise $$ for SUDS. (Total raised is still being calculated.)

The weather cooperated, the people were great, and the diving was good. But most importantly, we helped a good cause.

Diving in Tenn.

2009-09-22T21:08:00.004-04:00

Who would have thought you could scuba dive in Tennessee? I sure didn't.

I experienced my first quarry dive last month. Thus far I have been spoiled, having only done ocean diving. While I didn't get to see Reef life, I saw my very first paddlefish at Loch Low-Minn. The were super cool to look at--a cross between a platypus and a shark. It took three dives before I finally saw them, but it was worth it. I especially liked it when they opened up their mouths -- quite big (kind of like mine, or so I have been told).

I ended up doing four dives that weekend:

Depth | 72 feet, Time | 44 minutes, Temp. | 54 degrees Fahrenheit, Partner | Michelle
59, 41, 56, Michelle
31, 45, 72, Michelle -- finally saw paddelfish!
43 min., 59 degrees, Michelle and gang.

The fourth dive ended up being my first night dive -- which I loved! At one point I turned off my flashlight. I enjoyed the stillness of being under water in complete darkness.

All-in-all, it was a great weekend full of firsts.

A Two Hour Drive Took Us from One World to Another

2009-07-19T20:57:00.002-04:00

We went from a place where we didn't have room keys to a place where there were bars on the windows. Needless to say, we didn't like it too much. We just checked into the Radisson.

There's a First Time for Everything

2009-07-19T14:28:00.006-04:00

Being true to my sagatarious sign, I have a voracious appetite for learning, travel and new experiences. This trip is chock full of "firsts".

Fly fishing. Given that we stayed at a fly fishing lodge, we had to learn a few tricks. I had no idea that fly fishing is such an artistic sport.
Eating beef. When in Rome. Or so they say. Given that I'm hell bent on eating meat again, I had a few bites of filet mignon (sp?). It was a bit too chewy for my taste. I'm not claiming defeat yet though. I'll try again...later.
Horseback riding through the jungle. I have ridden in the Georgia mountains and the desert of Utah, but never a jungle.
Zip lining
Eating dog balls, and other random fruits, berries and leaves growing in the jungle.
Diving through a swim through.
Diving down 130 feet. This experience takes the cake. It was surreal -- unlike anything I have ever experienced before. I'll never forget this.

Getting Around

2009-07-19T11:42:00.005-04:00

I don't think I have every taken so many modes of transporation in such a short period of time as we have during this trip.

Bike. Riding along the beach of Abergris Caye was a blast -- if not a little challenging from time to time.
Water taxi. Since I dove the day before we were to leave the Caye, we couldn't fly back to the mainland so we had to take a water taxi. I'm glad we got to experience the local mode of transport.
Island taxi. Getting up and down Abergris is fastest if done by boat. The island taxi, if you don't have your own boat, is the way to go. (I don't recommend the golf cart, as the roads need a bit of work.)
Plane -- in different shapes and sizes. Flying from Belize City to San Pedro was quite an experience. I don't think I have ever flown in such a small plane. Thank goodness it was only a 15 minute flight.
Horse. Horseback riding through the jungle was a blast. I loved being surrounded by such diverse wildlife.
Fins. I'm glad I brought my fins along--they certainly got some good use. Snorkeling and scuba diving here rocks -- it is some of the best I have experienced thus far.
Boat. Next time I am NOT forgetting motion sickness meds. The 2-plus hour trip to the Blue Hole was rough, but I guess the fish loved me for it....
Zip line. We went on a nine stage zip line adventure in Guatemala on the way to Tikal. The first stage was a bit scary, but before I knew it I was practicing going upside down.
Canoe. Canoeing upstream is hard work -- thank goodness we had a paddle.
Feet. We have hiked, climbed temples, and walked for hours.

The trip isn't quite over...yet. I wonder if there is anything else we can add to the list?

Enjoying Nature -- as Intended

2009-07-19T11:29:00.005-04:00

I'm so happy we decided to stay at Chaa Creek, as there is so much to do here! We spend our days exploring the 300+ acres by horseback riding, hiking, canoeing, and walking along the medicine trail. This place is truly delightful.

Horseback riding in the jungle. My horse -- Al Capone -- and I got along beatiful. He is a gem. Whenever we weren't in the thick of the jungle we would run -- and it was a blast! Our guide, Roberto, did a great job educating us about the natural surroundings. He was also fun to talk with -- in Spanish. Boy, do I need to practice when I return home.
Walking on a medicine trail. I continue to be amazed that nature provides us with everything we need to survive. From food to water, from medicine to shelter. I find it perplexing that we opt to spend millions developing drugs that provide the same treatment as, say, the bark of a tree in the jungle. Spanish elder treats insomnia and anxiety, and the gumbolimbo provides the antidote to the posionous blackwood tree that tends to grow near the gumbolimbo.
Canoeing up the Macal River. A little before sunset we paddled up the Macal River (it was a little more challenging that I would have thought), but it was well worth it. In addition to seeing some great birdlife -- such as a family of toucans -- the ride downstream during sunset was sublime.

All-in-all, our time at Chaa Creek has been fantastic and I'm sad to leave, but happy I had the chance to stay.

Mystical Tikal

2009-07-18T22:07:00.004-04:00

Tikal was as enchanting as I imagined.

First, we visited Temple IV -- Tikal's tallest structure at 212 feet. When making it to the top of the structure, my breath was taken away (not due to being winded from climbing all of those stairs!). I saw a sea of dense green vegetation pierced by other Temples in the distance. The weather was perfect, so the blue sky made a perfect backdrop for the mystical landscape that laid before me. I couldn't believe I was finllay here. The nine year wait was well worth it.

I sat at the top of the stairs for a while, just taking it all in. The sounds -- birds, monkeys, leaves rustling in the wind, and different accents and languages -- the warmth of the sun, the coolness of the breeze, and the sheer beauty of it all.

Our other travel companions had alread descended the temple, so we had to soon follow.

Next we visited the Great Plaza -- and great it was. Temples designed like a perfectly stacked wedding cake surrounded me, as did crumbling limestone ruins. We explored Temples II, III and I. I could have spent an entire day there. When sitting on top of Temple II, I could see far below that I was being summonded. I'd have to return another day to continue taking it all it.

The last stop -- Temple V -- was astonishing. The stairs to get to the top weren't really stairs in my opinion. We climbed a 'permanent ladder'. I thought the previous views were amazing, but they were nothing compared to what awaited me once I got to the top -- high above the spider monkey-filled treetops. We could see all of the previously visited temples above the lush green canopy.

I could have sat there for hours. Once again, I was on top of the temple -- sola -- and was summonded to go back below.

The Classic Maya city really deserves a couple of days of exploration. Since I didn't have that much time this trip, I'll have to return. Maybe in another nine years :)

This Place is Magical

2009-07-15T21:36:00.007-04:00

After a half day journey from the east coast to the west via the island taxi, an island shuttle and then the lodge's van, we finally arrived at our destination -- Chaa Creek. This place is magical. I feel like I have landed in the world of the eowks (sp?).

This eco-friendly lodge perfectly blends in with the natural surroundings of lush green vegetation. Our room includes an indoor and out door shower, hamocks for our porch, and minimal lighting to encourage the use of natual lighting and sleeping when it is dark. We don't have room keys -- as people don't steal here. (There is a safe though for our cash and passports just in case.)

The individual huts and villas are nestled into the rolling hillside and at night a candlelit pathway guides you as you explore. The seating area for the bar includes hand carved wooden chairs and tables -- each unique, just like the trees with which they blend.

As night falls, creatures of the night awake. I hear unusual sounds, and wonder what may lurking around the corner.

The seven course meal was elegantly created with natual, and local whenever possible, ingredients. Tonight's fresh baked bread was Mexican, tomorrow it will be another interesting creation.

Like everything else thus far on this trip, my expectations have been exceeded -- let's see if that trend continues tomorrow when we visit Guatemala's ancient mayan ruins -- Tikal. Ever since visiting Guatemala in 2000 I have been dying to explore this fallen city. I cannot wait for tomorrow.

Diving in Belize

2009-07-15T19:49:00.003-04:00

The diving in Belize is fantastic -- I'm definitely coming back.

In addition to diving the Blue Hole (which I write about in a separate post), I did four other dives: the Aquarium, Half Moon Caye Wall, Tuffy Canyons, and Esperalda. Each was amazing in its own way.

For starters, I continue to be blown away by the diversity -- and quantity -- of wildlife. There hasn't been a dive yet that left me unsatisfied. Fortunately my volunteering at the Georgia Aquarium's 'tropical diver' gallery helped, as I had to learn to identify a hundred or so fish. I saw rainbow parrotfish, fox face butterfly fish, barracudas, nurse sharks, lobster, sting rays, green sea turtles, loggerhead sea turtles, surgeonfish, eagle rays, snapper, grouper, conch, eels, wrasse, and more.

I'm also impressed by the abundance of coral and other reef aquatic life. It is a shame that the coral is having such a hard time staying alive due to the decisions we make on land.

I swam through my first 'swim-through' which was a blast. It was very small -- my body and scuba equipment just barely fit through the hole. It was fun going through this small opening from one side to the other. Granted, going through swim-throughs aren't exactly safe, as if something were to happen you'd be SOL. Fortunately, I make a point of buddying up with dive masters so that I don't have anything to fear.

I truly love diving and can't wait to develop my diving skills and visit more places. It is a joyous experience and I feel so fortunate for having the opportunity to dive some of the world's best spots.

Our Financial Mess Touches those Thousands of Miles Away

2009-07-15T19:43:00.003-04:00

Walking along Ambergris from El Pescador, I was blown away by the number of real estate developements that were abandoned or slowly being constructed.

I knew we were visiting Belize during the low season, as the hurricane season technically starts June 1. However, paradise certainly couldn't be this vacant--even during the low season, could it?

When asking the locals if there are less tourists than normal this time of year, they all replied, "yes".

It makes sense that people are saving more now, trying to pay off credit card bills, and such. So many people were living beyond their means, that it was bound to catch up with them at some point.

I just hate that fiscal irresposibility of others touches people worlds away.

Hopefully things will turn around soon. These people need it.

The Old Man in the Sea

2009-07-15T19:40:00.002-04:00

When I was a kid, I could never get into Hemingway's "The Old Man in the Sea". I was told it was a beatifully written master piece, but I didn't get it. What's up with this old man hanging out in misery in the middle of the ocean to catch a fish of all things?

Now I get it.

Life has taught me plenty (and I still have much more to learn). And, staying at a fishing lodge further educated me on the significance of his feat.

When I get home I'm going to dust of my copy of this short novel. I'm looking forward to reading it again through a different lense.

Diving the Blue Hole

2009-07-15T19:23:00.003-04:00

Diving the Half Moon Caye Wall was on my 'must' to do list while in Belize. It so happens that the Blue Hole is right by Half Moon at the Lighthouse Reef which takes a couple of hours to get to (via boat) from Ambergris Caye, which is where we are staying. Since the only trips I could find grouped together dives at the Blue Hole and Half Moon (along with one other), I figured why not dive it? I'll be there, right?

I had NO idea what I was getting into! Diving the Blue Hole is an advanced dive. I'm a beginning - having only completed seven dives prior to the Lighthouse Reef excursion. I lacked training and experience, so thank goodness I do yoga and know how to keep my anxieties in check :)

Once we were all suited up and ready to go, the dive master briefed us on the dive. The more info I obtained, the more nervous I got. He then proceeded to provide us with signals should we feel a little loopy -- i.e., like we were drugged up. Geez, I thought --am I going to have to use that signal?

Turns out I did. Anesthesia is the closest thing I have taken that made me feel like that.

Fortunately my partner was the dive master and I held his hand the entire way down -- 130 feet -- into a velvety blackness unlike anything I have seen before. The flecks of plankton and such sparkled in the little light that wasn't absorbed.

When we finally got to the point where we were to level off at 130 feet (the hole goes down a few hundred more feet; however, recreational divers can't go below 130 feet), I saw the stalacities. (Supposedly the Blue Hole is a collapsed cave.) It was unreal. Unlike anything I have ever seen.

We swam through these fascinating structures and I realized it was time to make that crazy sign so that my diving buddy knew what frame of mind I was in.

I was hearing things and feeling out of this world. I wanted to rip off my diving gear - which definitely wouldn't have been a good idea!

Breathing the dense air was a challenge. I have never had such a difficult time inhaling! Once again, thank goodness for yoga and my decent lung capacity and skill at controlling my breath.

We spent a maximum of eight minutes at 130 feet -- at that was plenty long enough.

When we reached the top of the 'cave' for our safety stop, there just so happened so be some sizeable bull and Carribbean reef sharks circling about. Despite Jaws leading to the development of my fear of sharks, I could have cared less that they were hanging out with us.

When I finally made it to the top, I could not believe what I just did.

I still felt a little funny, but nothing like when I was at 130 feet.

Would I go it again? Maybe. After I get a few more dives under my belt.

All-in-all, I'm thrilled that I did it. It was definitely an experience of my lifetime (thus far). And, this dive further peaked my interest in gaining more diving skills so that I can further explore this fascinating universe under the sea.

Bikes for the Beach, Golf Carts for the Street

2009-07-13T22:37:00.003-04:00

Getting around Abergris Caye is quite an experience. The main modes of transportation are boat, bike and golf card. The boat is the best option when traveling from San Pedro (the main city on the island) to the north part of the island (which is where El Pescador is located). Bikes are nice when traveling up and down the north part of the island and golf carts are best for getting around San Pedro. As you may imagine, getting around can be quite a challenge -- you can't be in a hurry here, man -- and that's why I like it.

Slow down mam!

2009-07-13T22:35:00.002-04:00

You know you are a bit too up tight with the locals tell you to slow down because you are messin' up the pace of the place ;) I heard the message loud and clear, and am going to take it down a notch. I already feel the tension releasing and the stress melting away.

El Pescador--Belize's Best Kept Secret

2009-07-12T17:45:00.005-04:00

I'm thrilled that I really researched all of the hotels and resorts on Ambergris Caye, because I feel no buyer's remorse. I love where we are staying -- El Pescador.

This small, family-owned and operated fly fishing resort is perfect. The staff are warm and welcoming. Upon our arrival, we were welcomed 'home' not only by the owners' son, but on the welcome board our front.

Since we booked our reservation just a few days before arriving, we received an 'upgrade' to a villa -- which is AMAZING. I would seriously consider living here! We have access to the master bedroom (there are two additional bedrooms downstairs), two full baths, a huge kitchen/living room/dining area, and a fantastic porch with a ocean view -- and a hammock to boot.

We share a salt water pool with three other villas (only one is occupied). There are a few other pools here too, so it never gets crowded.

Every morning staff rake the lawn (i.e., the sand) to remove braches, etc., which may have fallend during the evening storm.

The water is a perfectly clear blue. The palm trees are perfectly placed.

The food is great -- everything is made from scratch daily. Last night we had oatmeal/wheat rolls, a pea soup made with a local pea, lobster, keylime pie and more.

The local beer - Belikin - is nice. I'm especially fond of the fact that the beer is only served in glass bottles which are recycled.

If the rest of the trip continues tihe way this one has gone thus far, I'm definitely coming back. Who's coming with me :)

Belize - Day 2 - Snorkeling Hol Chan

2009-07-12T17:40:00.005-04:00

El Pescador's dive master took Miriam and I out to Hol Chan -- i.e., Little Channel in Mayan -- and Shark Ray Alley. The snorkeling and private guide were fantastic!

After a light continental breakfast, the three of us took off. The boat ride was glorious - I loved the different shades of blue in the water and sky.

I was thoroughly impressed with the variety of marine life we saw is such a short time frame. We saw: parrotfish, group, triggerfish, barracudas, butterfly fish, green sea turtles, nurse sharks, spotted rays, sting rays, and more. Visibility this time of year isn't as high during 'peak' season, but it is still fantastic at 70+ feet. The water was around 88 degrees Fahrenheit - and felt great, until we had been at it for a few hours :) .

4th of July -- in Small Town U.S.A.

2009-07-05T15:33:00.005-04:00

The 4th of July has always been one of my favorite holidays. I remember spending the day on the beach followed by watching fireworks over the Florida Gulf. I reflect and remind myself why I'm proud to be an American -- the reasons I tend to take for granted during the hustle and bustle of modern American life.

This 4th was pleasant and simple -- the way it should be. A friend and I decided to spend it in Ellijay, Ga. After hiking for a few hours at Fort Mountain State Park (working off the homemade strawberry cake we devoured earlier in the day), we hung out with the locals in downtown Ellijay, enjoying live music followed by a pretty impressive fireworks show. While the fireworks weren't as elaborate as those in downtown Atlanta, the wholesome simplicity of the evening resonated with me at this point in my life. I was reminded of my childhood dreams and fond memories--that which holds true meaning in my life.

It is so easy to get caught up in the rat race. I'm glad we experienced an authentic and down to earth 4th of July. Especially since it reminded me of why I'm proud to be an American. Boy, am I happy to call the U.S. home.

Titus' Reign Coming to an End

2009-03-30T07:29:00.004-04:00

I'm not exactly sure why, but Titus' latest loss of power saddens me. Maybe it is because I don't want him to be alone? Maybe it is the fact that it seems that he is '"calling" the missing members of his group....calling for his son and old cohort Kuryama'? Maybe I'm doing what too many people do -- projecting human emotions onto a mammal that greatly resembles humans, thereby humanizing it?

Regardless of why the diminishing size of his group bothers me, I hope that he and his group members remain safe. After all, there is safety in numbers.

Mother Gorilla Leaves Twins

2009-03-01T00:28:00.004-05:00

Animal behavior fascinates me. I constantly wonder why they do what they do, or better yet, why they make certain decisions. A recent occurrence that makes me ponder gorillas' decision-making process is the transfer of Nyabilondore from Susa's group to Pablo's group.

Nyabilondore is the mother of twins--a rare occurrence. (I was fortunate to see Nyabilondore and her twins in the wild last September.) While the youngsters no longer suckle, I wonder why she chose to leave her playful young ones?

It seems like she's enjoying the new group though. She has reunited with her daughter, met her granddaughter and engaged in sexual activity with silverback Cantsbee, the dominant male of Pablo's group.

Sounds to me like she's a Sagittarius.

Rwandan Culture & Customs

2008-10-21T19:23:00.007-04:00

When traveling, I enjoy learning about local customs. For some reason my guide book didn't contain a handy list of dos and don'ts to help me avoid looking like a rude American. So...we made a few mistakes along the way. For example, we asked one man how many cows he has on his farm, not realizing that this is the equivalent of our asking someone how much he makes. A typical response to that question could be 'one cow' or enough. A few other things I learned follow.

It isn't unheard of for a widow to marry the brother of her deceased husband, as wouldn't her husband want her to be happy?
Having a housekeeper is common since labor is cheap
Eggs and dessert are eaten only by the rich.
Congolese music is popular.
Don't ask how many children one has.
I heard something about the government educating the people to have no more than three kids. Our guide only has a couple of children and doesn't plan on having more. A man said to him that he is "producing like white people" since he and his wife only have a couple of kids!
Men don't call older men by their name (out of respect)
Men hold hands--it is a sign of friendship/friendly affection.

Lessons Learned

2008-10-14T13:53:00.003-04:00

The Ethiopian flight from hell taught (or should I say reminded) me a couple of things about traveling.

Always prepare for the worst. On the way to Rwanda I did so. I had an extra change of clothes, toothpaste, a toothbrush, deodorant and more. If we were to get stuck someone on the flight over, I would have been ready. Since our flight went without a hitch, I become 'overly confident' and wasn't as prepared for the return flight. Yet, that's when I needed all of the extras, as we got stuck in Rome! Ahhh....
Never pack your meds. I cannot believe I packed all of my medications for the return flight! Again, this is not something I did on the way over! I had to go a whole day and a half without taking my malaria medicine! Good thing that I'm fairly healthy and haven't gotten it (yet :) )

All said, I am glad we got stuck in Rome instead of Addis Ababa, as I was able to buy some DELICIOUS Italian chocolates for the fam!

Now that was a Bad Flight

2008-10-03T11:03:00.003-04:00

I hate flying. Growing up I loved it dearly. If fact, I even considered becoming a pilot 'when I grew up'. But, this changed once I experienced a terrifying flight during my early twenties. Then 9/11 happened and it got even scarier. Flying--especially across the Atlantic--is not something I look forward to.

The trip to Rwanda was amazing. Perfect in fact. I couldn't have asked for anything better. I guess the flight home was to balance things out.

Our flight from Rwanda to Ethiopia was uneventful--just the way I like it. Then we changed planes in Ethiopia, but it didn't want to take off. The pilot informed us that air traffic control told them to abort take off b/c another plane just landed (and didn't have clearance to do so). Seriously, did he think we'd believe that story?

We made it to Rome. After an hour-long fueling and cleaning session, we were set to take off for home. But, again, the plane didn't feel like taking off, as the right engine wasn't pulling its weight. After trying to take off for an hour the pilot finally admitted that the right engine needed some work. This concerned me--and others. Why did it take the pilot so long to come to this conclusion? And, do we really want him to fly us across the Atlantic? (I sure didn't!) So, we sat on the tarmac for about 4 hours as they tried to fix the engine, fed us breakfast and tried to figure out what to do next--all while NOT communicated to us. We were completely in the dark and didn't know what was next. Some people couldn't handle this as evident by the crying and presence of medical staff who treated and removed some passengers from the plane.

Finally, a decision was made. We were set to get off the plane. Novel idea, huh?

Of course, we weren't at a gate, so it took three buses to take everyone to the airport. Then, those with U.S. passports were told to follow a short and spunky Italian woman, everyone else was to stay behind. We were informed that they were putting us up in a four star hotel where we could shower and rest. And, we were to be fed and given a phone call. I felt bad for everyone else, as it sounded like we were going to be waiting for a while....

I lost track of time, but we hung around the hotel for about 12 hours or so...Since we didn't know how much time we were to be there we were advised not to stray far, as if we missed the flight getting home would be our responsibility.

We would walk for 15 minutes or so, then return to the hotel to see if there was any news. We enjoyed some yummy Italian pastries, I purchased some chocolates for the fam back home and a couple of us walked through a lovely park where Italian kids were celebrating being one year the wise.

We were finally given word that the buses would pick us up at 7:30 to take us to the airport. This is when my friend and I started freaking out. Why hadn't we researched alternatives for returning home? I didn't trust the pilot and the old plane had issues. Flying across the Atlantic is scary enough, but these other factors made for a nerve-cracking experience that I didnt' want to be a part of.

I started researching alternatives--and found one. I could fly on Delta direct from Rome to Atlanta at 9 AM the following morning all for a couple of hundred dollars and 60K sky miles. I could do that--so why didn't I?

I didn't think it was my time to die. There's too much I haven't done yet. This may sound ridiculous or arrogant, but I didn't feel it was my time. That said, it was the scariest flight of my life. We laughed. Some of us cried. And we all clapped when the plane took off and landed.

Boy am I glad I made it home.

All Packed, but not Ready to Go

2008-09-27T05:02:00.001-04:00

Our once in a lifetime trip has come to end. I'm sad that it is over, but feel very blessed to have had this experience. I will never forget the moment I first saw a mountain gorilla in its natural habitat. We had fun, made new friends, and created some good memories. I'm heading to Georgia now, but Africa will always be on my mind.

Day 7 -- Boat Ride on Lake Ihema

2008-09-27T04:55:00.002-04:00

We began our day by taking a boat ride on Lake Ihema and circled a small island in the middle of the lake that was full of birds--I have never seen so many in one place in the wild! Since there is so much 'food', there were plenty of crocodile nearby sunning themselves and waiting to dine on the tasty treats.

During the ride to and from the boat trip we saw baboon, hippo, a plethora of bird species and more. The ride was fanstastic! There's nothing like sitting on top of a safari vehicle while travelling across the beautiful terraine!

Then, we checked out and headed to Kigali. After having lunch and checking in we went to a number of markets to purchase gifts before heading back to the States.

Before dinner we drank local beer--Mutzip + Primus--while looking at some photos from the trip. I can't wait to share them with everyone when I return!

Day 6 -- Safari in Akagera National Park

2008-09-25T12:16:00.005-04:00

Now I know why people go on safari. There is nothing like seeing wildlife in its natural habitat, being in the middle of nowhere and riding across the hills and plains as the wind blows through your hair. I'm hooked. Tanzania and Kenya, here I come!

The terraine and vegetation of Akagera differ greatly from that of the Virungas. The former is flat and dry, the latter is mountainous and wet. In fact, the Volcanoes National Park receives 90 percent of the precipitation that falls in Rwanda!

Today we saw: baboons, impalas, waterbucks, topi, antelope, elands, reedbuck, oribi, bushbuck, lilac-breasted roller, little bee-eaters, Ross's turaco, oribi, bushback, bateleur eagle, giraffe, crowned crane, fish eagle, crocodile, hippo, vervet monkey, warthog, buffalo, zebra and more!!

I'll post photos as soon as I get to the States :)

The Trip Thus Far

2008-09-24T15:37:00.004-04:00

I knew I would love gorilla trekking, but I had no idea I'd fall in love with Africa too.

When flying to Rwanda a few days ago, Rosie and I talked about where else in Africa we'd like to visit at some point in our lives. My list only included two places--South Africa and Zanzibar (I'm dying to dive there!). The list is now significantly longer.

The trip thus far has included:

Sept. 20: arrived in Kigali, visited the Kigali Genocide Memorial, headed to our lodging (the Gorillas Nest) in Kinigi which is where ORTPN is located
Sept. 21: trekked the golden monkeys, met with the director for the DFGFI's Karisoke Research Center, visited the gorilla orphanage, saw an Intore dance
Sept. 22: trekked to see the Amarhoro ('peace') group which is led by Ubumwe ('unity'), dropped off school supplies at a local school and briefly visited with students and staff, purchased some beautiful fabrics in a local market, visited a produce market, had a great conversation re: local customs while enjoying igisafuria and chapatti
Sept. 22: trekked to see Susa group which is the largest of the habituated groups, visited the Karisoke Research Center
Sept. 23: travelled to Akagera National Park which is located in the eastern park of Rwanda, right next to Tanzania
tomorrow: going on safari!!!

Details + photos coming soon ;)

Words can't describe it

2008-09-23T10:35:00.004-04:00

I'm typing from the Karisoke research center. The staff is amazing. I just met thosed involved with the education and ornithology programs, the office administration, etc.

I went on two treks --today and yesterday--both unique in their own way and absolutely amazing--I cannot believe that I saw mountain gorillas in the wild!

The director of Karisoke just arrive so I have to run to listen to a presentation....

More sooon!!

All Packed and Ready to Go

2008-09-18T20:56:00.001-04:00

I arrived in D.C. and tomorrow I have a 17+ hour flight before landing in Kigali Sunday morning! For someone who doesn't like to fly, this is going to be quite the adventure--but worth it in the end.

You Gotta Love Publix!

2008-09-09T17:01:00.004-04:00

After reading the CDC brochure titled Preventing Malaria in Travelers, I decided which antimalarial drug I wanted. I just picked it up from my local Publix pharmacy and was thrilled to hear that it was free! You can't beat that price. And, to top it off, a few months ago I picked up my prescription of Cipro, which was also free! Apparently they provide certain oral antibiotics (with a valid prescription) at no charge. You gotta love Publix :)

Rwanda's CIA - The World Factbook Entry

2008-09-08T22:31:00.004-04:00

Whenever traveling abroad I like to look up the destination country on the CIA World Factbook. Not only does it provide a solid snapshot of the country (including facts on everything from politics to agriculture), but also it provides important information on safety and other (if any) concerns.

I knew Rwanda was a relatively small country, but I had no idea how small until I read that it is "slightly smaller than Maryland". I also found the media age-18.7--to be shocking. This is probably a result of the 1994 genocide since the average life expectancy is 49.76 years.

Kigali Genocide Memorial

2008-09-07T22:34:00.004-04:00

I'm getting excited about my upcoming trip to Rwanda. I'm hiking a few days a week, slowly purchasing everything on my shopping list (from hiking boots to protein-rich granola bars), and making a point of picking up the pace of my reading.

I recall speaking with a former colleague who spent quite some time in Africa, including Rwanda. He pretty much said that it would be a sin if I were to pass through Kigali and not visit the Kigali Genocide Memorial, which is the burial site of more than 250,000 people killed in a three-month period during Rwanda's 1994 genocide. I'm having a hard time reading the books I purchased on the genocide, but given that the trip is close approaching, I'm making myself read a little every day, despite how unpleasant it is.

I just looked at the itinerary and it appears that we have some 'free time' during our last day -- the morning of the 27th. I'm now going to e-mail the travel agent now re: my desire to visit this memorial.

Digit was Murdered for $20 ?!?!?!

2008-08-28T21:16:00.004-04:00

Now that I have a little time on my hands, I figured I'd start writing about some of the things I learned while reading Woman in the Mists.

As mountain gorilla fans may know, Digit was Dian's favorite. And, unfortunately, he was murdered.

A merchant offered to pay a poacher about $20 in exchange for the head and hands of a silverback. Then, the merchant hoped to find a tourist to pay a premium for these 'souvenirs'. Unfortunately, Digit was the silverback they came across.

There are a couple of things that bother me here. First of all, why would tourists want to purchase the body parts of a gorilla? What pleasure would be had by having these pieces on display? I don't hunt (in fact, I'm a vegetarian), but I can somewhat understand why a hunter would want to display his kill. I don't; however, understand why someone would want to purchase parts of a dead animal. Is it arrogance? Would one want to do so to show that he/she actually visited Africa? To show that he/she was able to purchase something that's rare? I don't get it. Secondly, I understand that $20 is a lot of money in some parts of the world, but the thought that a life was taken in exchange for money makes me queasy. It is unsettling.

One thing that I like about the work of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International is their dedication to capacity building. They train and employ those within the local community. This in turn, lowers the chance that those in the community will be in dire need of money, and thus turn to poaching for survival.

To learn more about how DFGFI helps support small-scale sustainable economic development activities, click here.

There's Now Time for Summer Reading!

2008-08-27T23:42:00.004-04:00

I finally have time to do some reading in preparation for next month's trip to Rwanda. I just finished --after what seems like forever--"Woman in the Mists". I liked how the author wove in Dian's words (from her book "Gorillas in the Mist") with her own.

When going through my stuff in storage (in preparation for a move to Fla.), I finally found my copy of Gorillas in the Mist. I couldn't believe how old the book was--more than 20 years. I remember reading the book as fast as I could and hoping that I'd one day be able to walk the same earth as Digit. I guess this goes to show that if you believe in something and go for it, it could very well happen.

Can Gorillas Save the Polar Bears?

2008-08-25T22:03:00.003-04:00

Okay. The idea may be a bit of a stretch, but it does provide some food for thought (so to speak). Ensuring the survival of a species in one part of the world could in turn help guarantee the survival of others.

What role do gorillas play?

They are tree 'seed dispersal agents'. The resulting trees then play an important role in the ecosystem, which ultimately contributes to the stabilization of the climate.

So, if we save the gorillas, we may very well save the polar bears too. Cool, huh?

How do we Decide which Species should Live?

2008-08-25T19:59:00.004-04:00

When reading some articles about the recent survey of lowland gorillas I came across an interesting article on moving endangered species to save them from the threats of climate change. The idea sounds nice in theory, but I wonder how effective it would be in practice. We can rarely predict all of the consequences of introducing a species into a foreign ecosystem. One innocuous example is kudzu here in Georgia. And, it would be interested to see how the conservation and scientific community would come to agreement regarding which species should be saved. One characteristic mentioned was how "unique" it is. How would you define unique? Especially when one's uniqueness determines its livelihood.

Gorillas Engage in Homosexual Behavior?

2008-08-25T17:23:00.005-04:00

I watched The Gorilla King the other night (great flick BTW) and was shocked to hear that the film's main character--Titus--engaged in homosexual behavior. His father was killed by a poacher and his mom ended up running off when the new 'man' of the group murdered her son. Before you knew it, there were three males traveling across the mountain together....once female gorillas found them and joined the group, Titus didn't know how to respond to the advances of his new lady friends.

My visit to see the world’s mountain gorillas—why now?

2008-08-03T18:00:00.004-04:00

As I noted in my initial post, I have had an affinity for mountain gorillas ever since watching Gorillas in the Mist for the first time. The film deeply touched me and I wanted to not only see them in the wild, but to do something that could help save them as well.

Luckily, opportunity knocked a little over a year ago.

I work at a global PR firm. The head of a local ad firm needed help promoting the 40th anniversary of Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International's Karisoke Research Center--the longest standing center dedicated to studying and protecting the world's mountain gorillas. I immediately raised my hand to volunteer. My charge was to secure local media coverage, which I did.

Then, later in the year while working late a colleague asked if I submitted my "Edelman Escape" application. The deadline was that evening. It was already 9 p.m. and I still had work to do. He encouraged me to submit something. So, at 11 o'clock I wrote about why I wanted to visit the mountain gorillas in Rwanda and sent my essay just shy of the midnight deadline. I was thrilled weeks later to learn that I was awarded the Escape--a cash stipend to take a mini-sabbatical to do something meaningful and fulfilling. Had it not been for Edelman and my encouraging colleague (NW), I probably wouldn't be going to Africa this fall, as I wouldn't have imagined that this was something within my reach. Fortunately for me, others were there to help me realize a childhood dream.

No Time for Summer Reading

2008-07-27T13:53:00.004-04:00

I'm going to Rwanda in less than two months! The tickets were just booked. I'm incredibly excited, but sure do wish I had more time to prepare. Being the type A person that I am, I bought a stack of books on everything from Dian Fossey to the genocide. I wanted to read them all before my departure, but it is looking like I'm not even going to get through half of them. My personal and professional life has been way more complicated that I would have ever imagined, thus I haven't had very much spare time. Maybe I'll finish my 'summer' reading once I get back :) Asi es la vida....

Can charcoal wipe out the world’s mountain gorillas?

2008-07-13T18:53:00.003-04:00

I just finished reading the cover story—Who Murdered the Mountain Gorillas—of National Geographic’s July issue. Once again, I’m saddened by the current state of affairs of the world’s mountain gorillas. Only 720 remain, and the human race will wipe them out if things don’t change. Agricultural expansion, mining, political instability, human disease, poaching and more threaten their lives on a daily basis.

A year ago the world was outraged by the death of six gorillas—including a 500-pound silverback—in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). Their murder was shocking because no one could figure out why they were killed, or who was responsible. Their heads and feet weren’t removed so it couldn’t have been poachers, who sell body parts of the larger animals on the black market.

It turns out charcoal was to blame.

Paulin Ngobogo, who has 20 years of conservation experience, was the DRC’s national park service (ICCN) warden for the southern sector of Virunga National Park (Africa’s oldest national park and home to the mountain gorilla). He led an investigation into the illegal charcoal trade that destroyed the gorilla’s limited habitat, and threatened the security of the animals. During the investigations, Paulin discovered that his boss—the chief warden of Virunga National Park—was the kingpin of the charcoal trade. And, it was this man who wanted to remove Paulin from his position. When the chief warden was unsuccessful in this feat, he had the gorillas killed to discredit Paulin.

Fortunately for the mountain gorillas, and us, there are entities working to help protect these endangered species from extinction. One such group, the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International has been on the ground in the DRC since 2000, working with Conservation International, the Union of Associations for the Conservation of Gorillas and Community Development, the ICCN and more.

The two gorilla infant survivors from last July’s murders are being cared for at a facility DFGFI operates in conjunction with the Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project. And, DGFI “has been helping Maiko National Park develop adequate staffing by providing equipment, training, basic health care and salaries for 142 park staff, including 120 guards.” In 2007, a result of the groups’ efforts led to the arrest of 23 poachers, burning of 41 illegal camps, and dismantling of 1,199 snares in Maiko National Park.

It is comforting to know that NGOs such as DFGFI exist; however, they need funds to protect the world’s mountain gorillas. This is where we can help.

Not all flowers smell sweet

2008-06-16T22:42:00.003-04:00

As soon as I found out that I was going to Rwanda, I purchased a pile of books on everything from Dian Fossey to the Rwandan genocide. Currently, I’m reading Woman in the Mists: The Story of Dian Fossey and the Mountain Gorillas of Africa.

This biography includes excerpts from Dian’s writings (including Gorillas in the Mist). One topic about which I had no prior knowledge was the pyrethrum project, which started in the 1960s. This foreign-aid project led to the clearing of bamboo and hagenia forest on ten thousand hectares—more than a third located within Parc des Volcans boundaries. The land was then given to farmers, who “received their tiny plots free, on the condition they devote half the land to the cultivation of pyrethrum, the daisy-like flowers of which were dried and shipped to Europe to be used in the manufacture of an organic pesticide.”

While the intent was to help the Rwandan government care for Rwanda’s exploding population, there were negative consequences. Due to their dietary needs, mountain gorillas can only live in a small area within the Virunga Volcanoes—and this project decreased their living space, making survival of the species all the more challenging.

While Dian led an unsuccessful campaign against the pyrethrum project, it finally reached its end in the 1980s.

Reading about this project made me wonder how much good we are actually doing when ‘helping’ those in other nations. As an outsider it is impossible to fully understand how everything is interconnected. By helping one part of society we could create an imbalance that hurts another part of society, or the ecosystem. Also, when helping others, how genuine are the intentions? In the case of the pyrethrum project, Europe was able to purchase pesticide at a discount. By having a vested interest in pyrethrum project, the impact of the project on other parts of society and the ecosystem weren’t closely evaluated.

I believe that helping those in other countries is a delicate, complex matter that must be properly analyzed before a project is implemented.

Starting a career in your 30s

2008-04-27T12:20:00.003-04:00

Dian was 34 when Louis Leakey 'discovered' her and gave her the opportunity of a lifetime to study the world's mountain gorillas. Dian didn't really have any education or experience to qualify her for the job--just an intense passion.

You hear all the time that it is never too late to change careers, but is that really the case? Isn't there a point of no return? Don't you have to be at the right place in your life to make such a drastic change?

It seems that up to 80 percent of us are in the wrong job, and it usually hits us in our 30s.

Before taking the jump though, you have to know who you are and where you want to go. In the meantime, you have to suck it up and do the best you can at your job so that you can be independent and make the change once an opportunity arises.

From what I have heard (I haven't read it), What colour is your parachute does a great job helping readers to fully understand who they are and what type of a career would be a good fit.

Dian Fossey is an example of a woman who went after her passion-her age was a non issue.

How many other examples are there out there? Did you change careers at a later date? Did your age bother you? If so, how did you get over it?

Preparation + Vaccines

2008-04-13T14:43:00.002-04:00

While Sept. is five months away, I want to ensure I'm prepared for this trip (a dream come true!) and that I don't rush at the last minute and forget to do something. After all, how many times in my lifetime will I go to Rwanda?

So...I'm getting my vaccines now. To visit Rwanda, you have to get the yellow fever vaccine--U.S. citizens must have an International Certificate of Vaccination for Yellow Fever. So, I just got that vaccine and since I'm the type that wants to be prepared for anything, I'm also going to get the following vaccines:

Tetanus, diphtheria and Pertussis
Typhoid.

Additionally, as many know, malaria is commonplace it many parts of Africa, so I'm going to get an anti-malarial prescription. Probably doxycycline, but maybe malarone.

Useful resource: Web site of Rwandan gov't

2008-04-06T20:48:00.001-04:00

I didn't have much time this week to research, but found the Web site of the Rwandan government to be useful.

The itinerary

2008-03-30T11:19:00.002-04:00

Sept. 19: Depart the U.S.
Sept. 20: Arrive in Kigali
Sept. 21: Trek to see the Golden Monkeys. Deogratias Tuyisingize will accompany us. Deo works for the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International and has researched the monkeys, including their habituation.
Sept. 22/23: Trek to see the gorillas. There are now 7 habituated families, so we'll be able to see a different one each day.
Sept. 24/25: Travel to Akagera National Park, located in the east of Rwanda. Akagera suffered during the recent war with poaching and illegal settlements, but in recent years has been making a slow recovery. We may see elephant, giraffe, zebra, hippo and antelope.
Sept. 28: Return home :(

I’m going to Africa…!

2008-03-29T20:30:00.001-04:00

Ever since watching Gorillas in the Mist I have had a profound affinity for mountain gorillas. Immediately after watching the movie, I read Dian Fossey's Gorillas in the Mist front-to-cover in a single weekend and became further fascinated by the majestic animals.

This September my dream will come true--I will finally visit the gorillas in the mist!

I have never blogged before, but I figured I'd give it a try as I researched and prepared for my trip. Maybe others who have visited the mountain gorillas can share about their trip or offer advice....