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We stayed at El Tovar lodge. I really loved reading about its history and appreciated its sturdy authenticity. (And, the food in the main dining room is pretty good too :).)
We descended via the South Kaibab trail. While steep, it was doable. That said, I probably would have thought it to be more challenging prior to summiting Kilimanjaro.
My favorite parts of the hike were the bridges and seeing the mule deer. The further south we went the quieter the experience -- which was exactly what I was looking for.
The canyon was perfect. When walking to Phantom Ranch I couldn't have asked for anything more. I felt like I was walking into a different world -- and I was. The leaves were yellow, the sky perfectly blue and the occasional soft breeze gently rustled the leaves. The dining hall featured a large bell to call everyone to one of the two seatings for dinner. Since cell phones don't work so far down, there is a single phone booth to call home. I definitely plan on visiting Phantom Ranch again.
After a good night's sleep at the ranch, we hiked to Ribbon Falls. Relaxing on the rocks with a small creek in front of me and the falls behind me was my favorite part of the trip. I like how my Lonely Planet guide book describes the area behind the falls: "a fairyland of green heather moss and rust-stained rock."
We took the Bright Angel trail back up to the rim. This was the toughest day because it was cold and the higher up we got, the icier the trails. While Yak Traks make all the difference in the world, navigating mule dung on small trails at high altitudes got old after a few hours.
The Canyon is a masterpiece. And, like any masterpiece, you can't take it all in the first time.
A return trip is a must.
